-I URGE YOU TO READ OVER THIS INFORMATION IF YOU HAVE NEVER WORKED WITH RESIN CASTINGS BEFORE-

THIS TEXT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INFORMATION REGARDING THE PROPER USE OF YOUR PARTS
FAILURE TO READ AND FOLLOW THIS INFORMATION MAY RESULT IN UNDESIRABLE RESULTS

RESIN PARTS CAN BE A GREAT ALTERNATIVE TO THE MORE EXPENSIVE METAL ORIGINALS THAT THEY ARE CAST
 FROM. ANOTHER BENEFIT IS THAT THE SUPPLY IS RELATIVELY "ON DEMAND" MEANING THAT A RESIN PART CAN BE
MADE AND OBTAINED WHEN YOU WANT THEM. GETTING METAL PARTS IS ALSO TERRIFIC AND BELIEVE ME, I LOVE
MINE! THE ONLY DOWNFALL IS THAT THEY CAN BE A LOT HARDER TO OBTAIN AND MAY TAKE A LONG TIME TO GET
ENOUGH INTEREST IN THE PART TO DO THE RUN. I DID A RUN OF ALUMINUM OCTAGON PORTS MYSELF IN 2003 FOR
INSTANCE,  NOW THEY ARE THE MASTERS FOR MY RESIN ONES. IN MY ENTIRE INVOLVEMENT WITH THEY R2BUILDERS,
THIS PART HAS ONLY BEEN RAN TWICE SINCE 2000 AND WHO KNOWS WHEN OR IF IT WILL BE DONE IN METAL AGAIN.
WITH RESINPARTS YOU HAVE THE ALTERNATIVE  TO BUILD YOUR PROJECTS WITH. SOME BUILDERS DO NOT CARE ABOUT
USING METAL PARTS AT ALL AND THIS IS JUST FINE AS WELL. EXPERIENCED BUILDERS CAN MAKE PLASTIC LOOK LIKE
METAL USING PAINT AND WEATHERING TECHNIQUES WITH AMAZING RESULTS. FOR WHATEVER REASON YOU WISH TO
OBTAIN RESIN PARTS, THEY ARE RELATIVELY AVAILABLE IF THE PART HAS BEEN DONE BEFORE IN METAL.

WHAT IS A PART RUN?

PART RUN IS A CLUB TERM FOR GETTING A SPECIFIC PART MADE IN ALUMINUM. FOR THOSE WANTING TO
MAKE  ALL METAL DROIDS IT IS A BLESSING TO HAVE A PART RUN TAKE PLACE. IT IS A COST EFFECTIVE
WAY TO OBTAIN PARTS THAT WOULD BE EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE FOR A SINGLE BUILDER. ALL CLUB BLUEPRINTS
HAVE BEEN DRAWN AND ARE CHECKED WITH OFFICIAL CLUB DIMENSIONS TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE "COMPLETE"
(A "COMPLETE" PART MEANS THAT IT FOLLOWS OFFICIAL CLUB SPECS FOR EACH PART.  PARTS THAT ARE ALL
DESIGNED TO WORK WITH ONE ANOTHER IN SIZE AND FIT AND ARE "APPROVED" VIA THE BUILDERS COUNCIL
 OBTAIN THE TERM "COMPLETE" AND WORK TOGETHER TO CORRECTLY ASSEMBLE EACH BOT. EACH PART
HAS IT'S OWN OFFICIAL DIMENSIONS AND DRAWINGS TO INSURE THIS.) ONCE THESE PLANS ARE APPROVED
THEY CAN THEN BE SUBMITTED TO MACHINE SHOPS FOR QUOTES ON PRICE. A SHOP IS SELECTED AND THEN A
SINGLE "PART SUPPLIER" WILL ACT AS A MIDDLE MAN BETWEEN THE CLUB AND THE SHOP. THE PRICES ARE
BROKEN DOWN ON DESIRED NUMBERS BASED ON HOW MANY "SIGN UP" FOR A GIVEN PART RUN. THIS MIDDLE
MAN IS A FELLOW CLUB MEMBER WHO TAKES ON THE RESPONSIBILITY OF COLLECTING NAMES, PAYMENTS,
AND DESIRED NUMBER OF SETS TO PURCHASE. THE MONEY IS THEN USED TO PAY THE MACHINE SHOP TO MAKE
THE PARTS, IT IS USUALLY COMMON FOR THE MACHINING PROCESS TO TAKE A MONTH OR TWO TO MAKE ALL
OF THE PARTS. WHEN THESE PARTS ARE FINISHED, THE PARTS SUPPLIER WILL PICK UP THE GROUP ORDER FROM
THE SHOP AND BEGINS TO DISTRIBUTE THEM TO ALL OF THE BUILDERS WHO "SIGNED UP" ON THE RUN.
THE MORE OF A GIVEN NUMBER OF PARTS ORDERED FROM THE SHOP MEANS THE CHEAPER IT ACTUALLY
BECOMES. BUYING IN BULK IS ALWAYS A MORE AFFORDABLE WAY TO DEAL WITH SHOPS. IF ONE BUILDER ONLY
WANTED A SET OR TWO OF EACH PART IT WOULD COST QUITE A LOT OF MONEY TO HAVE THEM DONE, BUT GETTING
80 TO100 SETS OF THEM MAKES A PART RUN MORE AFFORDABLE FOR ALL.

-CRITICAL STEPS TO TAKE AS SOON AS YOUR PARTS ARRIVE-
THE MOST OFTEN OVERLOOKED AND MOST IMPORTANT STEP TO TAKE IS TO CLEAN THE
PARTS OF ANY POSSIBLE MOLD RELEASE BEFORE WORKING WITH THEM

I USE MOLD RELEASE ON SOME PARTS TO HELP IN THE DE MOLDING PROCESS. IT MAY BE IMPOSSIBLE TO
TELL WHAT PARTS MAY OR MAY NOT HAVE MOLD RELEASE ON THEM, IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO REMOVE ANY
TRACES OF IT FROM YOUR PARTS BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO PAINT THEM.
MOLD RELEASE IS COLORLESS, ODORLESS, AND MAY VERY WELL BE ON THE PART WITHOUT SHOWING ANY SIGNS
THAT IT IS THERE, SOME PARTS MAY ALSO FEEL 'GREASY' AND THIS IS A DEFINITE SIGN OF MOLD
RELEASE. OTHER TIMES IT MAY DRY FROM SITTING FOR A LONG TIME ON A PART AND MAY NOT
 BE FELT OR NOTICED BUT WILL STILL BE THERE. DRY MOLD RELEASE CAN BE 'RE MOISTENED" VIA
THE PAINTING PROCESS CAUSING ALL KINDS OF TROUBLE, PLEASE BE SURE TO FOLLOW THE STEPS OUTLINED BELOW.

-IF YOU DO NOT REMOVE THE MOLD RELEASE AGENT YOU WILL HAVE UNDESIRABLE PAINTING RESULTS-
THE PAINT MAY CRACK OR EASILY FLAKE OFF, DISCOLOR, ORANGE PEEL, FISH EYE, OR VERY POSSIBLY, NOT DRY AT ALL.

-AS AN INSURANCE TO YOUR PART INVESTMENT THIS STEP IS EASY AND SHOULD NOT BE AVOIDED-

-HOW TO REMOVE MOLD RELEASE FROM YOUR PARTS-

-ASSEMBLE MATERIALS NEEDED-
YOU WILL NEED A BATH TOWEL, COTTON BALLS, A BOTTLE OF ISOPROPYL RUBBING ALCOHOL, DISH SOAP, A ROLL OF BOUNTY PAPER TOWELS, AND A TOOTHBRUSH.

THE FIRST STEP IS TO GROUP ALL PARTS ON THE BATH TOWEL NEXT TO YOUR KITCHEN SINK AND ARRANGE
YOUR MATERIALS SO THEY ARE EASY TO GET TO.

NOW FILL YOUR KITCHEN SINK WITH WARM WATER AND A GENEROUS AMOUNT OF DISH SOAP
 (DO NOT USE EXTREMELY HOT WATER OR YOU COULD WARP YOUR PARTS!)

USE ONE COTTON BALL PER RESIN PART AND WET IT WITH THE RUBBING ALCOHOL
USING THE COTTON BALL NOW SOAKED WITH RUBBING ALCOHOL TO WIPE DOWN THE
RESIN PART IN A CIRCULAR MOTION TO BREAK LOOSE ANY MOLD RELEASE

MOLD RELEASE IS SILICON BASED AND NEEDS THE ALCOHOL TO BREAK IT LOOSE FROM THE PART
FAILURE TO COMPLETE THIS STEP WILL NOT REMOVE ALL TRACES OF MOLD RELEASE FROM THE PART

DO EACH PART ONE AT A TIME AND USE A NEW COTTON BALL FOR EACH PART

WHILE THE PART IS STILL WET WITH RUBBING ALCOHOL, PLACE IT INTO THE SINK AND PROCEED
TO WASH IT LIKE YOU WOULD YOUR DINNER DISHES USING THE TOOTHBRUSH.
 I RECOMMEND GETTING IT SOAPY FROM THE BUBBLES ON TOP OF THE WATER SURFACE AND
 BRUSHING ALL AREAS OF THE PART BEFORE PLACING IT INTO THE SINK TO SOAK BEFORE YOU RINSE.

THE RUBBING ALCOHOL BREAKS THE MOLD RELEASE LOOSE FROM THE PART
 AND THE DISH SOAP WASHES IT AWAY FROM THE PART


-YOU MUST COMPLETE BOTH STEPS TO SUCCESSFULLY REMOVE ALL TRACES OF IT FROM YOUR PARTS-

ONCE FINISHED SOAKING THE PART, REMOVE IT FROM THE SINK AND DRY WITH A NEW PAPER TOWEL

-YOUR PART IS NOW READY TO WORK WITH-

USE A NEW COTTON BALL AND PAPER TOWEL FOR EACH PART YOU ARE CLEANING
AS TRACES OF REMOVED MOLD RELEASE MAY BE CROSS CONTAMINATED FROM PART TO PART


-A NOTE ABOUT USING PRIMER ON RESIN PARTS-
WHEN IT COMES TO THE CHOICE OF PRIMERS USED ON RESIN PARTS, I STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU USE A SANDABLE AUTOMOTIVE PRIMER. I PERSONALLY USE RUSTOLEUM SANDABLE AUTOMOTIVE PRIMER ON ALL MY
CASTINGS AND IT HAS GREAT RESULTS. I DISCOURAGE THE USE OF "PLASTIC PRIMERS" ON CAST RESIN PARTS
AS I HAVE PERSONALLY HAD LESS THAN DESIRABLE RESULTS. IN GENERAL, HOBBY PRIMERS LACK THE DESIRED
SOLVENT STRENGTH TO STICK WELL TO RESIN PARTS. ANOTHER BENEFIT TO USING THE SANDABLE PRIMER IS THAT
IT GOES ON THICKER THAN REGULAR PRIMER HELPING TO FILL ANY PINHOLES OR SCRATCHES.

-AN IMPORTANT TIP-
VERY LIGHTLY APPLY A "MIST COAT" ONTO THE PART AND LET IT DRY FOR AT LEAST 30 MINUTES BEFORE
ATTEMPTING TO APPLY THE FIRST COAT OF PRIMER. THIS WILL HELP THE PRIMER STICK WELL TO THE PART AND
DOES NOT NEED TO FULLY COAT THE PART DURING THIS "MIST COAT"

-A MIST COAT SHOULD BE THIN ENOUGH TO STILL SHOW THE WHITE OF THE RESIN THROUGH IT-

SANDABLE PRIMER TYPICALLY COMES IN THREE COLOR CHOICES, A RUSTY RED OR TERRA COTTA COLOR,
BLACK,  AND GREY. BUT DEPENDING ON WHAT BRAND YOU USE YOU WILL OCCASIONALLY FIND WHITE.
-I HAVE FOUND THAT THE GREY COLOR IS THE ALL AROUND BEST BUT IT REALLY IS A MATTER OF CHOICE-


-PHYSICAL CLEANING AND TOOLING-

RESIN PARTS CAN BE SANDED, SAWED,  DRILLED, AND FILED AS REQUIRED.
MOST OF THE PARTS I MAKE DO NOT REQUIRE A LOT OF TOOLING TO WORK WITH THEM BUT SOME PARTS MAY
REQUIRE THE REMOVAL OF EXTRA RESIN REQUIRED IN THE MOLDING PROCESS. THIS EXTRA RESIN IS A RESULT
OF NEEDING A "GATE" OR "SPRUES" IN THE MOLD WHICH IS A HOLE OR CHANNEL IN WHICH THE LIQUID RESIN
FLOWS INTO. WHEN A MOLD REQUIRES SPRUES YOU CAN ALWAYS ASSUME IT WILL HAVE A "VENT" SOMEWHERE
ELSE ON THE PART AS WELL TO ALLOW AIR TO ESCAPE AS THE LIQUID RESIN FLOWS IN. WITHOUT SPRUES
THE RESIN COULD NOT BE POURED INTO ENCLOSED TWO-PART MOLDS.
 IF YOUR PART HAS SOME STRANGE FOREIGN LOOKING PIECE OF EXTRA RESIN ON IT THAT LOOKS LIKE
MODELING CLAY THEN YOU CAN BET IT IS A GATE AND WILL NEED TO BE REMOVED FROM YOUR PART BEFORE
ASSEMBLY. PARTS THAT WILL HAVE SPRUES ARE RADAR EYES (FOUR ON THE BACK), ANKLE CYLINDERS
 (TWO ON THE FLAT SIDE) BATTERY BOX HARNESS (A SMALL ONE AT THE BASE) THE LARGE DATA PORT (TWO ON EACH
 SIDE OF THE BACK) FOR EXAMPLE.

THE OCTAGON PORTS HAVE A SMALL BASE AROUND THEM OF EXTRA MATERIAL TO REINFORCE
THEM DURING DE MOLDING. YOU WILL ONLY NEED TO REMOVE THE EXTRA MATERIAL FROM THE
THE BOTTOM SIDE THAT SITS ON THE FLOOR OF THE BODY.

AS THE MOLDS ARE FILLED THE RESIN FLOWS UP THROUGH THE SPRUES, CURES, AND WILL LOOK
 LIKE STRANGE GROWTHS OR LEGS ON YOUR PARTS. THEY ARE NOT PRETTY BUT THEY SERVE A
 FUNCTION AND WILL NOW NEED TO BE REMOVED. I HAVE PLACED THE SPRUES SO THAT THEY DO NOT
EFFECT THE COSMETIC ASPECTS OF THE PART AND CAN EASILY BE REMOVED USING SMALL HOBBY SAWS OR A
DREMEL TOOL WITH A HIGH SPEED CUTTING ATTACHMENT.

-A WORD OF WARNING-
ALWAYS USE CAUTION AND TAKE THE PROPER SAFETY PRECAUTIONS WHEN WORKING WITH POWER TOOLS
USE SAFETY GLASSES AND A DUST MASK WHEN USING THE HIGH SPEED CUTTER OR ELECTRIC SANDER
YOU WILL GENERATE A LOT OF AIRBORNE DUST AND FLAKES WHICH CAN BE HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH.


IN SOME CASES YOU MAY WANT TO SAND YOUR PARTS WHEN YOUR FILLING PINHOLES OR
REMOVING FLASH. I RECOMMEND USING THE WET SANDING TECHNIQUE AS IT WASHES AWAY
THE DUST AND YOU CAN KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON WHAT YOUR DOING. BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN
SANDING ANY OF YOUR PARTS BECAUSE YOU CAN REMOVE A LOT OF MATERIAL VERY QUICKLY.
IF YOUR NOT CAREFUL YOU MAY SAND OFF WAY MORE THAN YOU NEED TO AND THAT IS NEVER GOOD.
BY USING THE WET SANDING TECHNIQUE, YOU ALSO BENEFIT BY NOT BREATHING THE HARMFUL
DUST CREATED FROM SANDING.

-BENDING AND RESHAPING-

RESIN CAN BE BENT OR RESHAPED BY USING BOILING WATER OR A HAIR DRYER IF YOU HAVE
A WARPED PART. THE BOOSTER COVERS GENERATE A LOT OF HEAT WHEN CURING AND CAN
SOMETIMES WARP THE "PRONGS" EITHER UPWARD OR INWARD. THIS IS UNFORTUNATELY
UNAVOIDABLE BUT QUITE FIXABLE. USE ONLY VERY HOT WATER OR A HAIR DRYER WHEN YOU
NEED TO RESHAPE A PART.

-NEVER USE ANY KIND OF FLAME TO RESHAPE RESIN-
IN ADDITION TO POSSIBLY DESTROYING THE PART, YOU MAY RELEASE DANGEROUS GASES!

THE BEST METHOD IS TO BOIL WATER AND IMMERSE THE PART INTO IT.
LET THE PART GET WARM AND GENTLY BEND IT IN STAGES UNTIL IT IS
IN THE CORRECT SHAPE. KEEP IN MIND THAT LARGE PIECES REQUIRE LONGER
IMMERSION TIME. ALWAYS WEAR PROTECTIVE GLOVES AS THE RESIN CAN GET
QUITE HOT. IF THE BOILING WATER METHOD SCARES YOU, TRY THE HAIR DRYER OR
HEAT GUN METHOD.

-BE CAUTIOUS NOT TO SCORCH THE RESIN-

IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO THEN IMMERSE THE PART IN COLD WATER ONCE YOU HAVE IT
WHERE YOU LIKE IT. IF THE PART IS ALLOWED TO COOL SLOWLY IT MAY CONTINUE TO SLIGHTLY
WARP AS HIGH HEAT NATURALLY CAUSES WARPING OF PLASTICS IN THE FIRST PLACE.

-CONSIDERING THAT RESIN IS SENSITIVE TO HIGH HEAT-
!! NEVER LEAVE YOUR PARTS IN A PARKED CAR DURING WARM TEMPERATURES !!


-USING ADHESIVES AND FILLERS-

PIN HOLES AND GAPS CAN BE EASILY FILLED USING BONDO, FIBERGLASS , OR J.B. QUIK.
IT IS ALWAYS EASIER HOWEVER TO FILL A BIGGER HOLE THEN A SMALLER ONE SO IF YOU HAVE A TINY AREA
 THAT NEEDS FILLED IN, IT MAY BE EASIER TO OPEN IT UP A LITTLE BIGGER WITH A HOBBY KNIFE.
SCORE THE AREA WITH THE BLADE OR SANDING PAPER TO HELP THE FILLER MATERIAL STICK.

-ALLOW THE FILLER MATERIAL TO FULLY HARDEN BEFORE YOU CONTINUE-

IT IS ALSO A GOOD IDEA TO SCORE AND SAND AREAS THAT YOU WILL BE GLUING
TO OTHER SURFACES AS IT DRAMATICALLY HELPS TO CREATE A GOOD BOND WITH MANY GLUING POINTS

-NEVER GLUE PAINTED AREAS ONTO OTHER SURFACES AS THE BOND WILL ONLY BE AS STRONG AS THE PAINT-

-USING CYANOACRYLATE AND ACTIVATOR-

CYANOACRYLATE OR "SUPER GLUE" WORKS WELL BONDING RESIN TO RESIN BUT NOT AS
 WELL AS TWO PART EPOXIES SUCH AS J.B. QUIK OR J.B. WELD. IT DOES HOWEVER FILL HOLES AND GAPS
QUITE WELL AND WHEN USED WITH ACTIVATOR YOU WILL BE ABLE TO FILL THEM AT A MUCH FASTER RATE.

WHEN USING TWO-PART EPOXIES YOU MUST WAIT UP TO 8 HOURS BEFORE YOU CAN
 EFFECTIVELY SAND IT DOWN AGAIN.
IF YOU USE CYANOACRYLATE GLUE AND ACTIVATOR, YOU CAN ALMOST INSTANTLY CURE
THE GLUE AND "BUILD UP" UNTIL YOU FILL THE GAP OR HOLE.

THE ACTIVATOR IS A SMALL SPRAY BOTTLE OF LIQUID THAT INSTANTLY CURES THE
CYANOACRYLATE. IT WILL SMOKE AND SOMETIMES POP AS IT BECOMES VERY WARM

THIS GLUE IS FOUND AT MOST HOBBY AND MODEL SHOPS AND TYPICALLY COMES
IN THREE THICKNESSES CONSISTING OF THIN, MEDIUM, AND THICK.
THE ACTIVATOR WILL BE SOLD SEPARATELY AND IS TYPICALLY FOUND AT HOBBY LOBBY
IN THE MODEL SECTION. IT IS USUALLY SOLD IN WHAT LOOKS LIKE A SMALL SPRITZ BOTTLE
AND MAY BE PACKAGED IN A CLEAR TUBE.


THIS STUFF IS REALLY FUN TO PLAY WITH BUT BE CAREFUL AS IT CAN
INSTANTLY BOND YOUR FINGERS TOGETHER. IT WOULD ALSO BE HARD TO EXPLAIN WHY
YOU HAVE A SHOULDER BUTTON GLUED TO YOUR CHEEK.

-PLAY WITH DIFFERENT THICKNESSES AND TRY TO FILL GAPS ON SOME SCRAP MATERIAL FIRST-

RESIN PARTS EASILY ACCEPT SCREWS BUT YOU SHOULD ALWAYS DRILL PILOT
HOLES IN THE RESIN FOR THEM. WITHOUT A PILOT HOLE, YOU MAY CRACK OR SPLIT THE PART.
 YOU ALSO GET A HORRIBLE SQUEAK IF YOU CAN TURN A SCREW INTO IT BY HAND AT ALL.


DRILL HOLES FOR BOLTS AS WELL BUT DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN PHYSICAL
 CONNECTORS WHERE IT IS LIKELY TO CRACK UNDER TO MUCH PRESSURE.



-A LITTLE ABOUT RESIN PLASTIC-
YOUR PARTS ARE CREATED WITH AN ULTRA-LOW VISCOSITY CASTING RESIN THAT YIELD CASTINGS
THAT ARE BRIGHT WHITE AND VIRTUALLY BUBBLE FREE. VACUUM DEGASSING IS NOT NECESSARY
WITH THIS TYPE OF CASTING RESIN AND THAT MEANS YOUR PART WILL HAVE LITTLE TO NO BUBBLES
IN THEM. BUBBLES CAN HOWEVER OCCASIONALLY APPEAR ON THE TOPS OF THE MOLD OPENINGS OR
 WHERE GASES ARE TRAPPED WITHIN UNDERCUTS. THIS RESIN EASILY ACCEPTS FILLERS SUCH AS BONDO
OR FIBERGLASS IF YOU DO NEED TO FILL ANY AREAS ON THE PART. I HAVE FOUND THAT J.B. QUIK IS AN
AWESOME FILLER THAT WORKS FAST. FULLY CURED CASTINGS ARE TOUGH, DURABLE, MACHINABLE,
AND PAINTABLE. THEY ALSO RESIST MOISTURE AND MILD SOLVENTS MAKING THEM AN IDEAL
MEDIUM FOR OUR MODEL PARTS.

-THE DARKJEDI HAS SPOKEN-
THANX FOR YOUR TIME MATES!