THE MOVABLE HOLO EYE COMES IN THREE PARTS.
THE BALL AND CONE ARE CAST TOGETHER AND THE FRONT COWLING ON THE LEFT IS WHAT IS
SHOWN OUTSIDE THE DOME. THE REAR COWLING ON THE RIGHT HOLDS EVERYTHING TOGETHER
INSIDE THE DOME AND IS NOT SEEN.
-DOES NOT INCLUDE LENS AND RETAINING CLIP-
-COMPLETE ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS BELOW-
-HOLO EYE ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS-
-A TUTORIAL ON HOW TO ASSEMBLE YOUR MOVABLE HOLO EYE-
THE FIRST THING YOU WILL WANT TO DO IS TO MAKE SURE YOU SAND DOWN AND EXTRA RESIN
OR FLASH FROM THE FLAT BOTTOMED RING SECTIONS OF THE FRONT AND REAR COWLING.
THE IDEA IS THAT EVENTUALLY, YOU WILL BE GLUING THE FRONT AND BACK COWLING TOGETHER
LOCKING THE BALL AND CONE INTO THE CRADLE OF THE COWLING.
TAKE A LOOK AT THE IMAGE TO THE LEFT JUST BELOW THIS TEXT,...WHEN I POUR THE
COWLING IT IS QUITE EASY TO HAVE EXTRA RESIN BUILD UP ALONG THE BACKSIDE OF
THIS RING. THIS CAN BE GOOD AS YOU WILL WANT TO HAVE ADDED STRENGTH HERE BUT YOU
WILL ALSO WANT THEM TO BE SANDED DOWN FLAT ENOUGH TO ALLOW FOR A GOOD GLUING
SURFACE AS YOU WANT THEM TO FIT GOOD AGAINST ONE ANOTHER.
I SUGGEST THAT YOU LAY OUT A PIECE OF SANDPAPER FLAT ON THE TABLE WITH THE GRIT
FACING UP AND SAND THE COWLING IN A CIRCULAR MOTION WITH THE RINGS SECTIONS FLAT
AGAINST THE PAPER. YOU DO NOT NEED TO GO CRAZY SANDING AS IT REALLY DOES NOT REQUIRE
THAT MUCH SANDING AT ALL TO MAKE THEM READY. SAND FOR SEVERAL SECONDS AND CHECK EACH
PASS UNTIL YOU ARE HAPPY WITH THE FIT.
TO PREVENT SMOOTH MOVEMENT OF THE BALL AND CONE INSIDE THE COWLING. YOU WILL WANT TO REMOVE THESE WITH A HOBBY KNIFE
OR DREMEL TOOL. USE CAUTION WHEN DOING THIS AS THE COWLING WALL IS VERY THIN. THIS IS ALSO A GOOD TIME TO SAND THE INSIDE OF THE
FRONT COWLING WITH A 400 GRIT PAPER. SIMPLY MAKE THE INSIDE OF THE FRONT COWLING SMOOTH AND FREE OF ANY FLASH OR AREAS THAT MAY
SCRATCH YOUR PAINT. YOU DO NOT NEED TO SAND VERY MUCH. JUST A LITTLE SANDING WILL SMOOTH IT OUT IF NEED BETHE FRONT AND REAR
COWLING SHOWN IN THE PICTURE TO THE RIGHT IS HOW THEY WILL SIT TOGETHER TO HOLD THE BALL AND CONE. NOTICE THE OUTSIDE COWLING ON
TOP OF THE LOWER COWLING WITH A CLEAN AND SANDED FIT.
-DO NOT GLUE THESE PIECES TOGETHER AT THIS POINT-
-MOVING ON TO THE NEXT STEP-
TAKE A CLOSE EXAMINATION OF THE BALL AND CONE.
IN ORDER TO CAST THE BALL AND CONE, A SLIT ALONG THE MOLD IS MADE FOR REMOVAL. IN SOME
CASES THIS CAUSES A VERY SMALL LINE TO APPEAR ON TWO OPPOSITE SIDES OF THE BALL. THIS MOLD LINE
IS NOT THAT NOTICEABLE BUT SHOULD BE SANDED OFF WITH FINE SANDPAPER SUCH AS A 400 GRIT. NOW IS
A GOOD TIME TO WET SAND UNTIL YOU HAVE REMOVED THIS MOLD LINE. WET SANDING KEEPS THE PAPER
CLEAN BY WASHING OFF THE SANDING DUST AS YOU GO. IT ALSO LETS YOU BETTER SEE WHAT YOUR SANDING
OFF SO YOU CAN KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON WHAT YOUR DOING. IT WILL NOT TAKE MUCH SANDING AT ALL TO
TAKE THIS MOLD LINE OFF THE BALL AND CONE AND YOU DO NOT WANT TO GO OVERBOARD MAKING THE
BALL PORTION OUT OF ROUND. DO NOT REMOVE MUCH MATERIAL AT A TIME BUT RATHER SAND A FEW
SECONDS, LOOK AT HOW YOUR DOING AND CONTINUE IN SMALL PASSES UNTIL THE MOLD LINE IS GONE.
SIMPLY RUN YOUR FINGER ALONG THE AREA THAT THE MOLD LINE WAS AND FEEL FOR ANY TRACES OF IT.
MOST IMPORTANTLY, MAKE SURE THAT THE AREA IS SMOOTH. YOU ARE ONLY WANTING TO REMOVE
THE MOLD LINE SO THAT THE BALL WILL MOVE SMOOTHLY AND UNHINDERED INSIDE THE COWLING.
YOU WILL WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THERE ARE NO AREAS ON THE BALL THAT WILL CATCH OR SNAG
AGAINST FELT FABRIC.
WHY FELT?
WHEN THE CLUB HOLOS WERE MADE, EXTRA ROOM WAS ALLOWED INSIDE THE COWLING FOR A
FELT TYPE FABRIC TO BE PLACED. THE REASON FOR THIS IS SIMPLE, YOU WILL BE MOVING THIS BALL
AROUND INSIDE THE COWLINGS AND YOU WILL WANT TO KEEP THE SURFACES FROM CONSTANTLY
SCRAPING AROUND. IN NO TIME YOU WOULD HAVE PAINT SCRAPING AGAINST SURFACES AND SUCH AS
THE BALL AND CONE WILL BE LOOSE AND BOUNCING AROUND IN THE COWLING.
THE FELT MAKES SURE THE BALL AND CONE ARE NOT LOOSE INSIDE THE COWLINGS. IT ALSO
ACTS AS A DRY LUBRICANT AS THE PARTS EASILY SLIDE AGAINST IT.
-TIME TO PAINT-
AT THIS POINT IT IS TIME TO PAINT YOUR PARTS. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SOME MASKING TAPE
AND A HOBBY KNIFE AS YOU WILL NEED THEM TO INSURE SMOOTH MOVEMENT OF YOU HOLO EYE.
-PLEASE VISIT THE WORKING WITH RESIN SECTION OF THIS WEBSITE FOR PAINTING INFORMATION-
-THE FIRST THING TO DO IS TO COMPLETELY REMOVE THE REAR COWLING FROM THE PARTS TO BE PAINTED-
PAINTING THE REAR COWLING IS NOT DESIRABLE AND IS BEST LEFT PLAIN WHITE RESIN AS
YOU WILL BE GLUING PIECES OF FELT AND THE FRONT COWLING TO IT. YOU DO NOT WANT TO EVER
GLUE PAINTED PIECES TOGETHER AS THE BOND WILL ONLY BE AS STRONG AS THE PAINT.
-NOW YOU WILL NEED TO MASK OFF THE INSIDE AND THE BACK RING OF THE FRONT COWLING-
THIS IS JUST A LITTLE TRICKY AS YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE YOU MASK OFF JUST ENOUGH OF THE MATERIAL
INSIDE THE FRONT COWLING BUT NOT TO MASK THE INNER RIDGE OF THE EXPOSED TAPER ALONG
THE FRONT BEVELED EDGE OF THE COWLING. IF YOU MASK OFF TO MUCH, THE WHITE OF THE RESIN
WILL SHOW WHERE THE BALL MEETS THE COWLING. THE REAR RING PORTION NEEDS TO BE MASKED SO
THAT YOU HAVE A CLEAN GLUING SURFACE FOR ATTACHING THE FRONT AND REAR COWLINGS TOGETHER.
MASK OFF THE INSIDE
OF THE OUTER COWLING AS SHOWN
SIMPLY MASK THE INSIDE ONE PIECE AT A
TIME UNTIL YOU HAVE GONE ALL THE WAY AROUND THE INSIDE
OF THE FRONT COWLING. AS YOU ATTACH EACH PIECE OF TAPE, BE SURE TO CUT THE TAPE ALONG THE FRONT RIDGE
MAKING SURE THAT THE CUT IS BELOW THE BEVEL ALONG THE OUTSIDE FRONT. IF YOU PUT THE BALL INTO THE FRONT
COWLING BEFORE YOU BEGIN TO MASK OFF THE INSIDE, YOU WILL SEE WHY YOU NEED TO DO THIS AS THE BEVEL DOES
NOT MAKE FULL CONTACT TO THE BALL ON THIS RIM. LET ME ADD THAT THE TAPE SHOULD NOT BE WRAPPED UP
AND AROUND THE OUTER RIM OF THE REAR BUT RATHER CUT IT OFF ALL THE WAY AROUND WITH THE HOBBY KNIFE.
-PROCEED TO PAINT THE FRONT COWLING AND YOUR BALL AND CONE THE DESIRED COLOR-
SOME EARLY MODELS HAD THE COWLING PAINTED A DIFFERENT COLOR. THE GREAT THING
ABOUT THIS HOLO IS THAT YOU CAN PAINT THE OUTER COWLING MUCH EASIER THAN MASKING
A FIXED HOLO. REMEMBER TO LEAVE YOUR REAR COWLING ALONE, ITS POINTLESS TO PAINT IT
AND WILL ACTUALLY MAKE WORK WORK FOR YOURSELF AS GLUING ON PAINT IS UNDESIRABLE.
I RECOMMEND THAT YOU PUT ONLY 2 COATS OF COLOR AFTER PRIMER AT BEST AND THEN CLEAR COAT IT
WITH 2 COATS. AT THIS POINT I WOULD ALSO LET THE PARTS SIT AND BE ALLOWED TO FULLY DRY FOR
AT LEAST 4 DAYS. YOU WANT YOUR BE 100% SURE THAT YOUR CLEAR COATS ARE HARD BEFORE YOU BEGIN
TO ASSEMBLE THE HOLO. WHEN THE PAINT IS HARD IT WILL BE SLICK AGAINST THE FELT ON THE REAR
COWLING. LASTLY, IF YOU ASSEMBLE PARTS THAT ARE STILL TACKY TO THE TOUCH YOU RISK THE CHANCE
OF PAINT FUSING TOGETHER. THIS MAY STICK AND GUM UP THE SMOOTH MOVEMENT OF THE BALL INSIDE
THE COWLING.
-PATIENCE IS VIRTUE-
OF THE FRONT COWLING. AS YOU ATTACH EACH PIECE OF TAPE, BE SURE TO CUT THE TAPE ALONG THE FRONT RIDGE
MAKING SURE THAT THE CUT IS BELOW THE BEVEL ALONG THE OUTSIDE FRONT. IF YOU PUT THE BALL INTO THE FRONT
COWLING BEFORE YOU BEGIN TO MASK OFF THE INSIDE, YOU WILL SEE WHY YOU NEED TO DO THIS AS THE BEVEL DOES
NOT MAKE FULL CONTACT TO THE BALL ON THIS RIM. LET ME ADD THAT THE TAPE SHOULD NOT BE WRAPPED UP
AND AROUND THE OUTER RIM OF THE REAR BUT RATHER CUT IT OFF ALL THE WAY AROUND WITH THE HOBBY KNIFE.
-PROCEED TO PAINT THE FRONT COWLING AND YOUR BALL AND CONE THE DESIRED COLOR-
SOME EARLY MODELS HAD THE COWLING PAINTED A DIFFERENT COLOR. THE GREAT THING
ABOUT THIS HOLO IS THAT YOU CAN PAINT THE OUTER COWLING MUCH EASIER THAN MASKING
A FIXED HOLO. REMEMBER TO LEAVE YOUR REAR COWLING ALONE, ITS POINTLESS TO PAINT IT
AND WILL ACTUALLY MAKE WORK WORK FOR YOURSELF AS GLUING ON PAINT IS UNDESIRABLE.
I RECOMMEND THAT YOU PUT ONLY 2 COATS OF COLOR AFTER PRIMER AT BEST AND THEN CLEAR COAT IT
WITH 2 COATS. AT THIS POINT I WOULD ALSO LET THE PARTS SIT AND BE ALLOWED TO FULLY DRY FOR
AT LEAST 4 DAYS. YOU WANT YOUR BE 100% SURE THAT YOUR CLEAR COATS ARE HARD BEFORE YOU BEGIN
TO ASSEMBLE THE HOLO. WHEN THE PAINT IS HARD IT WILL BE SLICK AGAINST THE FELT ON THE REAR
COWLING. LASTLY, IF YOU ASSEMBLE PARTS THAT ARE STILL TACKY TO THE TOUCH YOU RISK THE CHANCE
OF PAINT FUSING TOGETHER. THIS MAY STICK AND GUM UP THE SMOOTH MOVEMENT OF THE BALL INSIDE
THE COWLING.
-PATIENCE IS VIRTUE-
AFTER YOU HAVE PAINTED YOUR PARTS AND ALLOWED THEM THE PROPER DRYING TIME, YOU CAN
MOVE ON TO INSTALLING THE ACRYLIC CABOCHON (LENS) AND THE COMPRESSION RING.
YOU WILL NOTICE THAT THERE IS A GROOVE THAT RUNS AROUND THE INSIDE OF THE BALL NEAR
THE CONE. THIS SLOT IS A SEAT FOR THE COMPRESSION RING AS IT HOLDS THE CABOCHON IN PLACE.
THE CABOCHON ACTS AS A LENS FOR YOUR HOLO EYE.
THE TOOL PICTURED IS CALLED A COMPRESSION RING PLYER. AS YOU SQUEEZE THE HANDLES
TOGETHER, THE TWO BRASS TIPS WILL COME TOGETHER. EACH TIP IS PLACED INTO THE HOLES ON
THE RING AND THE TOOL IS USED TO FORCE THE COMPRESSION RING CLOSED.SO THAT IT CAN BE
INSERTED INTO THE BACK OF THE HOLO EYE AND PLACED INTO THE GROVE. AS THE TOOL IS REMOVED,
THE RING IS THEN TRAPPED IN THIS GROOVE WITH CONSTANT OUTWARD PRESSURE, HOLDING
YOUR LENS IN PLACE.
-YOU ARE GOING TO NEED A 1 1/2 INCH ACRYLIC CABOCHON FOR THE LENS-
THESE CAN BE PURCHASED AT WWW.TAPPLASTICS.COM
-YOU ARE GOING TO NEED AN INTERNAL RETAINING RING FOR A BORE DIAMETER OF 1 1/2 INCH-
THESE CAN BE PURCHASE AT WWW.MCMASTER.COM
-YOU CAN PURCHASE COMPRESSION RING PLYERS AT ANY HARDWARE STORE-
NOTE:IT MAY LOOK EASY BUT IT CAN BE FRUSTRATING PUTTING THESE THINGS IN.
IT MAY REQUIRE A LITTLE BIT OF BRUTE FORCE TO SEAT THE CLIP IN ITS GROOVE.
I RECOMMEND THAT YOU FOLD A THICK PAPER TOWEL INTO A SQUARE AND PLACE
YOUR HOLO EYE CONE DOWN ONTO IT. YOU WILL BE GOING IN FROM THE BACK ANYWAY
AND IT WILL GIVE THE PAINT ON THE FRONT OF THE CONE A LITTLE CUSHION WHILE YOU
ARE INSTALLING THE LENS.
-YOU MUST INSTALL THE LENS AT THIS POINT AS IT BECOMES EVEN MORE TROUBLE LATER-
-PLEASE TAKE MY WORD ON THIS , I HAVE ASSEMBLED MANY OF THESE-
IS THE REAR OF THE FIXED HOLO THAT I OFFER. YOU CAN SEE THE CABOCHON RESTING INSIDE. IF YOU LOOK AT
THE FIXED HOLO, YOU CAN SEE THE COMPRESSION RING AND HOW IT IS SEATED WITHIN THE GROOVE.
-BOTH STYLES OF HOLO EYES ACCEPT LENSES IN THIS SAME METHOD-
-ATTACHING THE FELT MATERIAL-
NOW THE TIME HAS COME FOR US TO INSTALL THE FELT MATERIAL INTO THE REAR COWLING.
THE MOST COMMON MISCONCEPTION IS THAT YOU NEED A LOT OF FELT, SOME FOLKS IN THE PAST
HAVE WRITTEN TO ME SAYING THAT THE HOLO WILL BIND UP AND NOT MOVE. THE REASON FOR
THIS HAS ALWAYS BEEN THAT THEY USED WAY MORE FELT MATERIAL THAN NEEDED. IF YOU COVER
THE ENTIRE SURFACE OF THE INSIDE OF THE REAR COWLING, YOU WILL BIND IT WITH TO MUCH MATERIAL.
I HAVE FOUND THAT YOU ONLY NEED THREE SMALL SQUARES SET UP IN A TRIANGLE POSITION TO
SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETE ASSEMBLY.
CUT YOURSELF THREE 1/4 INCH SQUARES OUT OF SOME EXTRA THICK FELT. YOU MUST USE FELT
MATERIAL AND YOU CAN PICK THIS UP AT ANY FABRIC OR HOBBY STORE. ONCE YOU HAVE
YOUR FELT SQUARES YOU THEN PROCEED TO ATTACH THEM TO THE INSIDE OF THE REAR
COWLING. SIMPLY TAKE YOUR FELT SQUARE AND SPREAD A THIN LAYER OF CYANOACRYLATE
TO THE ROUGH SIDE OF THE FELT. MAKE SURE THAT YOU DO NOT SOAK THE FELT AS IT WILL
DRY HARD AND WILL SCRATCH YOUR BALL AND CONE. YOU ONLY NEED A THIN TO MEDIUM
LAYER. NOW PRESS THE SQUARE INTO THE REAR COWLING AS SHOWN, MAKE SURE THAT
YOU KEEP THE FELT BELOW THE EDGE OF THE RIM. PRESS HARD FOR SEVERAL MINUTES AS
YOU DO EACH SQUARE. AT THIS POINT YOU COULD EVEN SQUIRT YOUR THUMBNAIL ONCE
(MAKE SURE ITS JUST ONCE AS YOU DO NOT WANT TO SOAK YOUR FELT MATERIAL)
WITH YOUR ACTIVATOR AS EVEN THE FUMES ARE ENOUGH TO SPEED CURING. MAKE SURE
THAT YOU LET THE GLUE BECOME FULLY DRY. IF YOUR UNSURE, LET THE PART SIT FOR AN HOUR
OR TWO BUT MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL, MAKE SURE THAT YOUR FELT FOLLOWS THE CONTOUR
OF THE COWLING. IF YOUR FELT IS NOT FLAT AGAINST THE CURVED SURFACE YOU MAY NOT BE
ABLE TO CLOSE YOUR HOUSING AT ALL LET ALONE MOVE IT.
-FINAL ASSEMBLY-
LASTLY WE NEED TO PLACE THE BALL AND CONE INTO THE FRONT AND REAR COWLINGS AND PRESS
THEM HARD TOGETHER TO TEST THE FIT. IF YOUR HOLO FEELS EXTRA TIGHT THEN SIMPLY SAND THE
RIM OF THE REAR COWLING UNTIL IT BECOMES EASIER TO MOVE. THIS PART IS EXTREMELY TRICKY
BECAUSE AFTER A FEW DAYS YOUR FELT WILL SETTLE INTO POSITION AND WILL EASE THE TIGHTNESS
SLIGHTLY. THE TRICK OF THIS IS THAT WHEN YOU INITIALLY SEAL THE FRONT AND REAR COWLINGS, YOU
WANT IT TO FEEL JUST A LITTLE BIT TIGHTER THAN YOU NEED FOR EASY MOVEMENT BUT NOT LOOSE
ENOUGH FOR THE BALL AND CONE TO RATTLE INSIDE THE COWLINGS. AS YOUR HOLDING THE TWO
PIECES TOGETHER, KEEP IN MIND THAT THE FELT WILL SETTLE JUST A BIT AND TRY TO GUAGE IT. ITS
THE BEST THING I CAN TELL YOU WITHOUT PHYSICALLY BEING THERE TO SHOW YOU. REMEMBER
THAT SOME MEMBERS WILL WANT TO MOVE THE HOLO EYE WITH A SMALL SERVO. YOU WILL WANT
TO MAKE SURE THAT THE SERVO CAN MOVE THE BALL AND CONE EASILY. IT IS BEST TO GLUE THE PARTS
SO THAT ITS JUST A TINY BIT OVER THE TIGHTNESS YOU DESIRE. ANYTHING OVER THAT MAY MAKE
THE BALL AND CONE BIND UP.
ONCE YOU ARE SATISFIED WITH THE FIT YOU THEN NEED TO GLUE THE FRONT AND BACK COWLING
TOGETHER. SOME MEMBERS ASSEMBLE THESE WITH POP RIVETS AS WELL. CHOOSE WHATEVER
METHOD THAT BESTS SUITS YOUR APPLICATION. USE CAUTION WHEN USING ADHESIVES TO MAKE
SURE YOU DO NOT HAVE ANY OF THE GLUE LEAK IN BETWEEN YOUR COWLINGS AND THE BALL AND CONE.
IF THIS HAPPENS YOU CAN EASILY GLUE THE BALL AND CONE INSIDE THE HOUSING AND MAKE A
MOVABLE HOLO EYE INTO A FIXED ONE JUST LIKE THAT. IT IS CRITICAL THAT YOU KEEP ALL GLUE
OUTSIDE OF THE CRADLE OF THE COWLING. I ALWAYS PLACE A SMALL RING OF CYANOACRYLATE
ON THE OUTSIDE RING OF THE REAR COWLING AND PLACE IT ON THE FRONT COWLING. I KEEP MY
FINGERS EVENLY SPREAD OUT ON EACH SIDE PRESSING TIGHTLY AS I HAVE A FRIEND SPRAY THE
ACTIVATOR AROUND THE SEAM SO IT INSTANTLY FUSES. THIS WAY I AM SURE THAT NO GLUE WILL
FIND ITS WAY INTO THE FREE MOVING AREA OF THE COWLINGS. BE VERY CAREFUL DOING THIS
AS IT IS THE LAST STAGE OTHER THAN INSTALLING THE EYE INTO YOUR DOME.
-PICTURED HERE IS THE FINISHED ASSEMBLY OF THE HOLO-
GOOD LUCK, HAVE FUN, AND ENJOY!
